< (1) (#78). This museum, dedicated to Holland's favorite beverage and
housed in the old brewery, is filled with tourists but nevertheless entertaining.
From here, cross the Weteringlaan bridge, then walk right around the Weteringlaan roundabout.
You'll pass < Carrousel (2) < (Tweede Weteringplantsoen #1),an old-time pancake
restaurant incorporating a vintage fairground carousel. Try their typical Dutch <,
tiny pancakes covered with powdered sugar.
Turn right onto Weteringschans and stop in at Godfather-esque restaurant < (#171),
where an elderly pianist serenades diners.
Turn left when you reach Westeinde, just before the colossal modern Nederlandsche Bank,
and cut through the pretty Frederiksplein, with its bubbling fountain, to Utrechtsestraat.
This lovely street and it's offshoots are filled with great, eclectic establishments:
Eat tapas at < (#142), or turn left on Utrechtsedwarsstraat to
< (#67), an eccentric café run by an old vaudeville star.
Back on Utrechtsestraat, browse the rambling music store <(#52-60).
< (#65) is good for Tibetan food, and transvestite cabaret < (#4) is seedy but fun.
At the top of Utrechtsestraat is Rembrandtplein. Once a butter market, now the square is where everything good and bad
about Amsterdam rubs shoulders. Huge coffee shops sprawl next to generic Irish pubs, and street performers entertain the crowds.
Drop into the grand < at #17, then glance at the small statue in the center of the square
commemorating its namesake, Rembrandt.
To continue on your way, hop on one of the many trams that stop on Rembrandtplein.
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